Anaga Beaches: Wild Coves of Tenerife's North-East

The Anaga mountains fall straight into the Atlantic, leaving a coastline of dramatic black-sand coves that most visitors never reach. This is the wild side of Tenerife — worth every switchback on the way down.

The classic coves

Benijo is the poster child: a wide black-sand beach with the Roque de Benijo rock tower offshore, best at sunset. A little further, El Roque and Almáciga offer smaller coves with calm swimming, while in the Taganana valley Roque de las Bodegas is the largest and liveliest of the coves, with simple beach bars. Playa del Tamadite and Playa de Antequera are completely unserviced — bring water and snacks. For a true escape, El Llano in the Anaga reserve near Igueste de San Andrés is a walk-in cove of shifting sand and pebbles, reachable on foot only. The views from the clifftop roads alone justify the drive.

Surf and swim

Most Anaga beaches are exposed Atlantic breaks — great for surfers, challenging for swimmers. The sheltered option is Playa de la Laja on the edge of the Teresitas sands, where locals swim year-round. Always check the flags and the current before entering.

Getting there

The coves are reached by steep, winding roads from Taganaña and the Anaga park. Parking is scarce in summer — arrive early. The area sits a short drive from Santa Cruz, so it works as a day trip or part of a longer north-east circuit.

Respect the wild

These are some of the island's most fragile shores — take your rubbish out, keep off the dunes and let the marine life alone. The reward is a coastline that still looks like it did a century ago, the hidden gem of the Canaries.