Los Gigantes & the West: Cliffs, Coves and the Masca Gorge

The west of Tenerife is where the island shows off. A wall of basalt cliffs rising almost 600 metres straight out of the Atlantic, black-sand coves at their feet, a coastline that has barely been built on, and the famous gorge at Masca hidden in the hills behind. It's the most photographed coast in the Canaries — and one of the most rewarding places to base yourself for a day or a week.

The cliffs and the resort

The heart of the area is the Los Gigantes cliffs ("the giants"), a vertical natural wall best appreciated from the water. The small resort of Los Gigantes sits at their base around a marina; its neighbour Puerto de Santiago spills down the coast below the cliffs. For swimming, Playa de la Arena is the best black-sand beach on this coast, with calm waters most days and a gentle slope that suits families. The quiet cove of Puerto Santiago is a favourite with locals, and the tiny sheltered Playa de Los Guíos hides at the foot of the cliff beneath the resort. The coves continue south along the coastal path: quiet, dark-sand Playa de Alcalá beside the fishing dock at Alcalá, and, for walkers, Playa de Fonsalía, Los Tarajales and tiny Playa de los Topos strung along the Guía de Isora cliffs.

The Teno headland

The wild headland north of the resort is Teno — one of Tenerife's last truly undeveloped corners. Drive or hike up to Teno Alto, the hamlet of stone houses at the top of the valley, then continue to the Punta de Teno lighthouse, where the island's westernmost point drops into the sea. On the southern side of the headland, the old fishing village of La Caleta is a picture-perfect stop for a fresh-fish lunch.

Masca: the famous gorge

Above Los Gigantes, the village of Masca clings impossibly to the mountain — a tiny settlement that was reachable only by mule until the 1960s. From it, the Mirador de Masca viewpoint looks down the sheer-sided gorge to the sea; the hike down to the beach and back is one of Tenerife's most spectacular (and most demanding) trails. The road in is steep and winding — leave plenty of time and drive carefully.

Staying on the west coast

This is the coast for scenery rather than big resorts, and the hotels lean on the view: Landmar Costa Los Gigantes (4★, from €74) has pools and direct cliff views, while the smarter Barceló Santiago (4★, from €110) sits on the clifftop. North of the cliffs, the all-inclusive Hotel Riu Buenavista (4★, from €150) and the golf-set Meliá Hacienda del Conde (5★) anchor the far north-west, while the apartment El Ancla (3★, from €86) in Callao Salvaje is the budget pick on this coast. It's also the island's prime base for whale-watching trips — the resident pilot-whale and dolphin pods live just offshore in the strait to La Gomera.

Getting there

The west is a 40-minute drive from Tenerife South airport along the TF-1 motorway. By bus, TITSA runs direct services from the south and from Puerto de la Cruz via the north coast; the drive north through the Teide National Park and down past the lava pools of Garachico makes a spectacular one-day loop back to the south.

Eating on the western coast

The west has quietly become a dining destination. Codeso in Los Gigantes fuses Canarian flavours with a Michelin Guide nod, Aqua sits right on the cliffs above the marina, and Casa Pedro, tucked into the working fishing port of Puerto de Santiago, does the freshest fish on the coast. Inland towards Guía de Isora, Las Goteras is a wood-smoke grill specialist with generous meat portions that draws a loyal local crowd.

Along the coast at Callao Salvaje, Playa de Ajabo is the sun trap where the calm-water crowd gathers. Staying nearby, the village-style Ona Sueño Azul (4★) and Aguaviva Apartments sit a short walk from the sand, while Albatros Apartments offer quiet seafront living in the same corner.